Donderdag 21 maart, 8 uur
Aanvang FILM 20.00u (ticket 7 euro)
Boulderen + film (12 euro)
PASTA vanaf 19.00u (5 euro)
Friday, March 22, 2013 20H
Casino Modern André
Samedi 23 mars 19H
Salle d’escladade Terres neuves
Lundi 25 mars les nuit de la montagne
Grand Rex à Paris
Jeudi 28 mars
20h, ON2 04.223 - Herestraat 49, 3000, Leuven, http://www.luak.be
20h, Cinema Rialto - Langestraat 39 Oostende, www.brosbarbier.be
20h, Country Hall d’Angleur, http://www.cabliege.org/
20h, Altitude CCM, Centre sportif Cardinal mercier, 83 ch de Mont-St-Jean, 1420 Braine-l’Alleud, www.ccmsports.be
20h, Salle d’escalade Face Nord, Chemin Chêne aux Haies, 2 à 7000 Mons, www.facenord.be
20h, Auditoire Pedro Arupe, rue Grangagnage, 5000 Namur, namur.clubalpin.be
20h15, Salle Ysaye, Place des Chasseurs Ardennais, 6700 Arlon, www.escalpades.eu
20h, Salle d’escalade Entre Ciel et Terre, Cenre sportif du Blocry, Place des Sport, 1 à 1348 Louvain-la-Neuve, www.entrecieletterre.be
To be honest when we first arrived to this wall and looked at putting up a route on its right side we felt crushed by it, we felt there would be no chance for us to find a line to free and we should just find different objectives. But as we climbed our first route up an obvious line on the left side of the wall, we noticed that unlike granite, the rock here is full of horizontal holds which are impossible to see from the ground. We realized we had to look at this wall in a different perspective because anything is possible with this rock. Not to say that there are holds everywhere but just that holds can be found sometimes in the most improbable places.
When we came back to the wall with an extra load of food, suddenly one line, as improbable as it looked, stood out and then we set out for our second vertical adventure up Amuri but knowing that chances of failure would be higher than success. Even if from the ground only the first couple pitches looked more or less obvious and not so steep, the climbing was wild and adventurous right from the start. Plants, lose blocks, poor protections, wet holds and occasional visit of animals made the climbing very exciting! Between all of us we took a record of about 20 falls but thankfully the wall is so steep all you do is fly in the air. But out of all of us Sean owns the hairier ones with his 40m fall on the second pitch (see details on the attaches pictures) which resulted in some serious burns on Jean-Louis’s hands but also a few other spectacular ones with memorable nasty core shots on the double ropes. It was tricky to decide what to do with Jean-Louis fingers in order to avoid infection. So we waited 4 days extra on the ground to see how his wounds would evolve. Fortunately eventually, it improved and he managed to join us for the ride on our exploration unfortunately though without being able to climb or belay.
Here we are again, like wild animals out of the jungle, after another amazing adventure. We climbed Amuri Tepui… a second time!! This time a very improbable line….
After our first line on Amuri we retuned to the small village of Yunek to collect the rest of food we had left behind there. That’s where we finally caught up with the other team: Mason, Siebe, George and Sam, who were airing for their plane to fly out. Even though we spent 10 days hanging on the wall, not too far away from each other, it was difficult to harmonize the notes because of the distance and the speed of sound, so finally Yunek was the first time we could really JAM together, and also catch up and talk.
They told us about their ascent, the difficulties, the obstacles and the magical moments. Even though they will never hear us say it, the line they choose is amazing, obvious and (you never heard this from us) a “king line”. When they raved about their ascent obviously we were very tempted to go back and try to free climb their line. Now that they had explored the line it would be a lot easier for us to repeat it and thus leave us a lot more time to try and free climb the line (they did not manage to free the line entirely due to difficulty and lack of time). They flew away, and we returned into the bushes to have Amori to ourselves. All alone. When we returned to the wall, our vision had changed and we dared to imagine things… we set our eyes on a different line… (obviously the real king line).
We will be updating this website regularly for the next few weeks with more info and pictures!
I received a message from the team last night.
They are doing very well! They just spent a few long days on the cliff and had to go down because they ran out of food… I guess they didn’t want to eat roasted spiders anymore…
They didn’t tell me what they actually did on that face… Surprise, surprise… They should be heading home in a few days. Stay tuned for more news (and pictures)!
The team just spent a few days off by the side of a river in the jungle. Disappointed by the size of the spiders and snakes they met, they decided to back their bags with 20 days of food and go back to real life: their new 600 meters overhanging playground…
After spotting a new line on “Amuri” two days ago, “The most engaged and difficult line so far”, they quickly placed the first runs.
Nico had a great 5 hours aid climb session the first day to prepare the line for a free run. A bit later, Sean gave it a try and made a legendary 40 meters fall pulling off most of the anchors he placed and burning Jean-Louis’s hands on the belay…
No doupt, they are now in the middle of they art…
Stay tuned, their satellite phone is obviously working well and they will give more news in the coming days!
We finally received some news from the team! They just finished the free ascent of “Amuri”, a 600 meters overhanging and colored face way back in the jungle! It took them 9 days to get to the top. No doubt they had some nice swings during the jams on that face!
They are now back on the ground getting ready for the next run.
I hope everything is rolling good for you guys. Here we are in Venezuela enjoying 40°c of contrast with the winter we just left. Conditions are extreme here. We have to be very careful with crocodiles when swimming…. The locals ask us why we spend so much money to go suffer in the jungle when we can just stay here in Cuidad De Bolivar… and we ask ourselves the same question. So maybe we’ll just stay here next to the pool where in is plenty extreme enough….
We have just finished buying all our food and last supplies to go off into the wild jungle for 45 days of complete autonomy. Tomorrow morning, we take a small plane that will fly us over the Gran Sabana and drop us in the small amazonian village of Yunek located at the hearth of the Tepuis mountains. From then on, we will be completely disconnected from internet and as soon as we will set off into the jungle, there should be just us and all the wild animals. Four days of hiking will lead us to our monster big wall. Let’s hope he is not too mean to us!
Via a satellite phone, we will update our blog : www.xpedition.be and our facebook page http://www.facebook.com/xpeditionbe
You can check them already for the latest news.
Feel free to spread/use our news and follow our action.
Greetings from Cuidad Bolivar,
Nico, Sean, stephane and Jean-louis
Ok, so we’re heading off on another Big wall adventure!
On February 5 we leave to go big wall jamming on the mythical Tepui’s of Venezuella. We’re going on a search for first ascents and virgin walls in the mighty jungle. Besides the difficulties of climbing and jamming, there will be all the interesting animals like snakes, spiders, scorpions, crocodiles, monkeys etc… and we sure hope they will like our music.
We’re heading out into the jungle for 45 days of autonomy. The team consists of the usual suspects Sean Villanueva and Nicolas Favresse (nicolasfavresse.com), but also Stephane Hanssens, a strong young Belgian climber and drummer who was with us the previous expedition to Baffin Island featured in “Asgard Jamming” (DVD available for sale on this website). Furthermore Jean-Louis Wertz a very talented climber, experimental singer and professional photographer will be coming with us. Check out his website to see his work! (jlwertz.be)
Obviously we’ll be bringing all our musical equipment and we look forward to developing a new repertoire with the local indigenous people and all the wild creatures we hope to encounter.
Our first objective is a Tepui called Amuri, which might just have one of the most overhanging big walls around! We’ve heard rumours of a 600m waterfall, with overhanging vegetation and scorpions that climb 9a+…
We would like to thanks all our sponsors who are joining us in this jungle adventure: The Belgian alpine club, Patagonia, Julbo, Five Ten, Black Diamond, Seeonee, Sterling ropes, Beal, Belclimb.be, Petzl, Careplus , Katadyn, Nordisk, Boreal, Crux, AVS aviation.